Yoichi-Nobori-N 2023 Passetoutgrain 11.5%

Yoichi experienced its hottest year on record in 2023, with a cumulative temperature of 1590, even exceeding the total average temperature in Burgundy. The year was blessed with low rainfall and abundant sunshine from budbreak to veraison, and the vines grew well. However, the harvest began earlier than expected due to a rapid drop in acidity and severe damage caused by birds. The fermentation environment in the cellar was also greatly affected by global warming, which altered the ecological balance of wild microorganisms, making it difficult to ferment with wild yeasts, which is the estate's specialty. For this reason, starting in 2024, the estate began installing air conditioners in the cellar and building an underground cellar for barrel aging.
The Takahiko Estate has a 6.7-hectare vineyard called Nanatsumori. The wines made from the grapes of this vineyard are known as “Nana-Tsu-Mori.” In 2023, however, all of them were downgraded and marketed under the name “Yoichi-Nobori-N Passetoutgrain” instead of “Nana-Tsu-Mori.” Its lively acidity requires longer than normal aging to round out. As sulfite, which had not been added for several years, has been added, it is best to wait until around 2030 before opening this wine.
Zweigelt, a red grape variety representative of Yoichi, has a powerful structure and rich, sumptuous fruitiness, similar to Gamay. This wine was made in the style of Burgundy's Pastougrand, composed mainly of Gamay and Pinot Noir. The Zweigelt comes from grapes grown by “Mikino Hotori” in the Nobori district of Yoichi. The label does not mention Domaine Takahiko, only Takahiko Soga, as this wine is not made from 100% of the estate's own grapes.
For this Passetoutgrain, the aroma of plums and prunes is more pronounced than usual, followed by spicy notes such as cumin and cinnamon, then black fruits in the background. Overall, the aromatic volume is very rich in this vintage. It also has a characteristic acidity that distinguishes it from previous Nanatsumori wines. The color is firm and, among the fruity aromas, there are notes of violet and other flowers and herbs, as well as hints of fallen leaves and matsutake mushrooms. The finish is very long and pleasant, accompanied by umami.

Winery: Takahiko Soga Winery
Location: 1395 Noboricho, Yoichigun Yoichicho, Hokkaido